Print Email Facebook Twitter The influence of breaking waves on the vertical velocity distribution in the surf zone Title The influence of breaking waves on the vertical velocity distribution in the surf zone Author Walstra, D.J. Contributor Stelling, G.S. (mentor) Faculty Civil Engineering and Geosciences Department Hydraulic Engineering Programme Environmental Fluid Dynamics Date 1994-09-01 Abstract In this report we describe the development and calibration of a model which predicts the vertical distribution of the horizontal velocities induced by waves, the so-called undertow. Location of interest is the nearshore region where the flow is induced by both breaking and non-breaking waves. The model consists out of three modules. The first module computes the properties of the incoming (breaking) waves, a second module converts the resulting dat from the first module so that it can be used as input for the third module which is a 2DY model. The 2DY model is a 2DY version of DELFT HYDRAULICS' TRISULA which is a 3D hydrostatic tidal model. The waves influence the flow in three ways. A first effect is a shear stress at the water surface which originates from the breaking of waves. Also is shown in this thesis that the waves induce a mass flux which has as a result that there is a nett flow directed off-shore. The third effect is the influence of the orbital motion on the viscosity distribution. All these effects are included in the model described in this thesis. The model has been tested against measured data in the Delta flume to see how accurate the model predicts the undertow. Also published as Delft Hydraulics report H 1684 Subject surf zonebreaking wavesvelocitiy distributionundertow To reference this document use: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:27b9df2f-9e44-4e36-90f8-1e8634453ac5 Part of collection Student theses Document type master thesis Rights (c) 1994 Walstra, D.J. Files PDF walstra_1994.PDF 29 MB Close viewer /islandora/object/uuid:27b9df2f-9e44-4e36-90f8-1e8634453ac5/datastream/OBJ/view