Print Email Facebook Twitter Infragravity-wave dynamics in a barred coastal region, a numerical study Title Infragravity-wave dynamics in a barred coastal region, a numerical study Author Rijnsdorp, D.P. Ruessink, G. Zijlema, M. Faculty Civil Engineering and Geosciences Department Hydraulic Engineering Date 2015-06-07 Abstract This paper presents a comprehensive numerical study into the infragravity-wave dynamics at a field site, characterized by a gently sloping barred beach. The nonhydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH was used to simulate the local wavefield for a range of wave conditions (including mild and storm conditions). The extensive spatial coverage of the model allowed us to analyze the infragravity-wave dynamics at spatial scales not often covered before. Overall, the model predicted a wavefield that was representative of the natural conditions, supporting the model application to analyze the wave dynamics. The infragravity-wave field was typically dominated by leaky waves, except near the outer bar where bar-trapped edge waves were observed. Relative contributions of bar-trapped waves peaked during mild conditions, when they explained up to 50% of the infragravity variance. Near the outer bar, the infragravity-wave growth was partly explained by nonlinear energy transfers from short waves. This growth was strongest for mild conditions, and decreased for more energetic conditions when short waves were breaking at the outer bar. Further shoreward, infragravity waves lost most of their energy, due to a combination of nonlinear transfers, bottom friction, and infragravity-wave breaking. Nonlinear transfers were only effective near the inner bar, whereas near the shoreline (where losses were strongest) the dissipation was caused by the combined effect of bottom friction and breaking. This study demonstrated the model's potential to study wave dynamics at field scales not easily covered by in situ observations. To reference this document use: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2b841c55-0c3d-4a51-93cc-40b7a155e9f7 Publisher American Geophysical Union Embargo date 2015-12-07 ISSN 2169-9291 Source https://doi.org/10.1002/2014JC010450 Source Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 120 (6), 2015 Part of collection Institutional Repository Document type journal article Rights (c) 2015 American Geophysical Union Files PDF Rijnsdorp_2015.pdf 1.78 MB Close viewer /islandora/object/uuid:2b841c55-0c3d-4a51-93cc-40b7a155e9f7/datastream/OBJ/view