Long wave case study for Barbers Point Harbour, Hawaii

Long wave case study for Barbers Point Harbour, Hawaii

Van Giffen, I.K.

Battjes, J.A. (mentor)
Ligteringen, H. (mentor)
Van Dongeren, A.R. (mentor)
Petit, H. (mentor)
Roelvink, J.A. (mentor)

Civil Engineering and Geosciences

Hydraulic Engineering

2003-01

This master thesis project focusses on the numerical modelling of bound and free long wave action in two diffrent harbours. This model, called Surf Beat, is a time dependent generic numerical model for the simulation of generation and propagation of bound long wave energy generated by short carrier waves. This model has been developed by Delft Hydraulics and is part of the hydraulic modelling environment Delft 3D. The carrier wave energy and the corresponding bound wave is calculated at the boundary and transported into the computational domain. The effects generated by refraction and breaking of the carrier waves are all accounted for in the model. Some simulations were also done that also include diffraction of the short wave. The first harbour is located in the Pacific Ocean on the island of Oahu, Hawaii (US). The modelling of this harbour consisted of calibration of the model to this particular situation, sensitivity analysis and some mitigating measures.The second harbour is a bay in South Africa, where a jetty services bulk carriers. The modelling for this harbour consisted of the modelling of the long wave action during four selected storms. The sensitivity analysis done shows that the influence of the directional spreading of the short wave signal influences the results quite significantly. It also showed that bottom friction

http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:6a2f50f8-22a0-404e-81f9-04bde69df798

TU Delft, Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Hydraulic Engineering

Student theses

master thesis

(c) 2003 I.K. van Giffen