Print Email Facebook Twitter Numerical simulations of surf zone wave dynamics using Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics Title Numerical simulations of surf zone wave dynamics using Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics Author Lowe, R. J. (University of Western Australia; School of Earth Sciences; ARC Centre of Excellence for Coral Reef Studies; Wave Energy Research Centre) Buckley, M. L. (University of Western Australia) Altomare, C. (Universitat Politecnica de Catalunya; Universiteit Gent) Rijnsdorp, D. P. (University of Western Australia) Yao, Y. (Changsha University of Science and Technology) Suzuki, T. (TU Delft Environmental Fluid Mechanics; Flanders Hydraulics Research) Bricker, J.D. (TU Delft Hydraulic Structures and Flood Risk) Date 2019 Abstract In this study we investigated the capabilities of the mesh-free, Lagrangian particle method (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics, SPH) to simulate the detailed hydrodynamic processes generated by both spilling and plunging breaking waves within the surf zone. The weakly-compressible SPH code DualSPHysics was applied to simulate wave breaking over two distinct bathymetric profiles (a plane beach and fringing reef) and compared to experimental flume measurements of waves, flows, and mean water levels. Despite the simulations spanning very different wave breaking conditions (including an extreme case with violently plunging waves on an effectively dry reef slope), the model was able to reproduce a wide range of relevant surf zone hydrodynamic processes using a fixed set of numerical parameters. This included accurate predictions of the nonlinear evolution of wave shapes (e.g., asymmetry and skewness properties), rates of wave dissipation within the surf zone, and wave setup distributions. By using this mesh-free approach, the model was able to resolve the critical crest region within the breaking waves, which provided robust predictions of the wave-induced mass fluxes within the surf zone responsible for the undertow. Within this breaking crest region, the model results capture how the potential energy of the organized wave motion is initially converted to kinetic energy and then dissipated, which reproduces the distribution of wave forces responsible for wave setup generation across the surf zone. Overall, the results reveal how the mesh-free SPH approach can accurately reproduce the detailed wave breaking processes with comparable skill to state-of-the-art mesh-based Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) models, and thus can be applied to provide valuable new physical insight into surf zone dynamics. Subject DualSPHysicsSmoothed Particle HydrodynamicsSurf zoneWave modellingWave transformationWave-induced currents To reference this document use: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7aa14d12-d6fe-4bf2-9bec-1bf3b0c27a30 DOI https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2019.101481 Embargo date 2021-10-16 ISSN 1463-5003 Source Ocean Modelling, 144 Bibliographical note Accepted author manuscript Part of collection Institutional Repository Document type journal article Rights © 2019 R. J. Lowe, M. L. Buckley, C. Altomare, D. P. Rijnsdorp, Y. Yao, T. Suzuki, J.D. Bricker Files DOCX SPH_surfzone_modelling_MA ... clean.docx 4.11 MB Close viewer /islandora/object/uuid:7aa14d12-d6fe-4bf2-9bec-1bf3b0c27a30/datastream/OBJ/view