Print Email Facebook Twitter Shear stresses and mean flow in shoaling and breaking waves Title Shear stresses and mean flow in shoaling and breaking waves Author Stive, M.J.F. De Vriend, H.J. Faculty Civil Engineering and Geosciences Department Hydraulic Engineering Date 1994-01-01 Abstract We investigate the vertical, wave averaged distributions of shear stresses and Eulerian flow in normally incident, shoaling and breaking waves. It is found that shear stresses are solely due to wave amplitude variations, which can be caused by shoaling, boundary layer dissipation and/or breaking wave dissipation. The resulting shear stress and mean flow distributions for these cases are derived, and compared with earlier work. The attractive, now frequently used modelling choice of specifying a shear stress at the mean surface level is discussed in the context of the constituent equations and related boundary conditions and constraints. A derivation of the shear stress at the mean surface level is given both by using the momentum balance and energy balance equations, which is shown to lead to the same result, if the effects of a changing roller are incorporated correctly). Finally, matching solutions for the shoaling and breaking wave cases between the boundary layer and the middle layer for the shear stresses and the wave averaged flow are derived. Subject shear stresscross shore currentbreaking waves To reference this document use: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c13a7bff-6ca4-47d7-b590-93fdfe5eee5b Publisher ASCE Source ICCE 1994: Proceedings of the 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Kobe, Japan; Authors version Part of collection Institutional Repository Document type conference paper Rights © 1994 AuthorsCreative Commons BY Files PDF Stive94d.pdf 545.11 KB Close viewer /islandora/object/uuid:c13a7bff-6ca4-47d7-b590-93fdfe5eee5b/datastream/OBJ/view