Print Email Facebook Twitter Shallow foreshore wave height statistics Title Shallow foreshore wave height statistics Author Groenendijk, H.W. Contributor Battjes, J.A. (mentor) Vrijling, J.K. (mentor) Schiereck, G.J. (mentor) Van Gent, M.R.A. (mentor) Janssen, J.P.F.M. (mentor) Faculty Civil Engineering and Geosciences Date 1989-01-01 Abstract Wave height distributions on shallow foreshores deviate from those in deep water due to the effects of the restricted depth-to-height ratio and of wave breaking. Laboratory data of wave heights on shallow foreshores of different slopes have been analysed to determine these effects and to derive generalised empirical parameterisation. A model distribution is proposed consisting of a Rayleigh distribution or a Weibull distribution with exponent equal to 2, for the lower heights and a Weibull with a higher exponent for the higher wave heights. The parameters of this distribution have been estimated form the data and expressed in terms of local wave energy, depth and bottom slope, yielding a predictive model that is to be significantly more accurate that existing expressions. Subject wavesshallow foreshoreweibullrayleigh To reference this document use: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:fe03dda9-40d9-4046-87fb-459f01fcd3d3 Publisher TU Delft, Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Hydraulic Engineering Part of collection Student theses Document type master thesis Rights (c) 1989 Groenendijk, H.W. Files PDF ceg_groenendijk_1989.pdf 1.78 MB Close viewer /islandora/object/uuid:fe03dda9-40d9-4046-87fb-459f01fcd3d3/datastream/OBJ/view